“Your time is limited, don’t waste it living someone else’s life. Don’t be trapped by dogma, which is living the result of other people’s thinking. Don’t let the noise of other’s opinion drown your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition, they somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary.” – Steve Jobs

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

The Festival of Oracles: Matho Nagrang


Location: 27-km South of Leh, Ladakh Region, J&K
Main Attrcation: Matho Gompa
Monastic Festivity: Matho Nagrang Festival
Matho, 27-km south of Leh , straddles a spur at the mouth of an idyllic side valley that runs deep into the heart of the Stok Kangri. Though no less interesting or scenically situated than its neighbours, the Gompa, the only representative in Ladakh of the Sakyapa sect that held political power in 13th century Tibet, sees comparatively few visitors.
Matho Nagran Oracle Festival:
Despite its collection of four hundred year old Thangkas, the monastery is best known for its Oracle Festival Matho Nagrang, held on the 25th and 26th day of the second Tibetan month. Two oracles, known as "Rongzam", are elected by lot every three years from among the sixty or so resident lamas. During the run up to the big days, the pair fast and meditate in readliness for the moment when they are possessed by the spirit of the deity.

Watched by crowds of rapt onlookers, they then perform all manner of death defying stunts that include leaping blindfold around the Gompa's precipitous parapets while slurping kettle full of Chang, and slashing themselves with razor sharp 'Sabres' without drawing blood. The events are rounded off with colourful Chaam dances in the monastery courtyard, and a question and answer session in which the Rongzam, still under the influence of the deity, make prophecies about the coming year.

The Colourful Festive Attires:
One can check out the costumes and masks worn by the monks during the festivals in Matho's small museum, tucked away behind the Du-khang. Men are also permitted to visit the eerie Gon-khang on the roof (strictly no photography), where the oracles weapons and ritual garb are stored. The floor of the tiny temple lies under a deep layer of barley brought as harvest offerings by local villagers.